Annealing Brass for Jackets

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Annealing Brass for Jackets

Post by Sasquatch-1 on Tue Mar 13, 2012 12:48 pm

When using brass cases for jacketsand using the harbor freight saw, do you anneal and then cut or cut and then anneal or does it make any difference?
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Re: Annealing Brass for Jackets

Post by hawcer on Tue Mar 13, 2012 12:55 pm

Either way...

Try both ways and see what you like best. With the brass annealed and soft, it might be harder to get a good cut without the jacket deforming.

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Re: Annealing Brass for Jackets

Post by Reload3006 on Tue Mar 13, 2012 12:58 pm

lol I cut then anneal it never occurred to me to try it t he other way. I would bet from experience as a machinist harder would be better because soft is gummy.
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Re: Annealing Brass for Jackets

Post by Sasquatch-1 on Tue Mar 13, 2012 1:18 pm

Reload3006 wrote:lol I cut then anneal it never occurred to me to try it t he other way. I would bet from experience as a machinist harder would be better because soft is gummy.

I just did about 50 that I had annealed. They seem to work fine. I have noticed the slightest bit of crushing on the case, but nothing the swaging die won't reform. I was just wondering if the saw is enough to work harden the brass enough to possibly cause problems when swaging?
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Re: Annealing Brass for Jackets

Post by Reload3006 on Tue Mar 13, 2012 1:22 pm

I dont think it does it hasn't on me so far
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Re: Annealing Brass for Jackets

Post by Daywalker on Wed Mar 14, 2012 8:23 am

I waited until after I did all of my cutting to aneal the brass. Using the case trimmer, if I annealed before trimming, the case would just twist and rip. However, no annealed, in the case trimmer, it trimmed with ease.

When I annealed and used the harbor freight saw, the mouth of the case would flatten and then I would have to find a way to get it back in round after cutting. When I annealed, I would have the lights off and do it until the case turned a bright red which made it "dead soft".

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Re: Annealing Brass for Jackets

Post by Sasquatch-1 on Wed Mar 14, 2012 10:45 am

Daywalker wrote:I waited until after I did all of my cutting to aneal the brass. Using the case trimmer, if I annealed before trimming, the case would just twist and rip. However, no annealed, in the case trimmer, it trimmed with ease.

When I annealed and used the harbor freight saw, the mouth of the case would flatten and then I would have to find a way to get it back in round after cutting. When I annealed, I would have the lights off and do it until the case turned a bright red which made it "dead soft".

I have been getting an occaisional and very slight dent at the top side of some of the cases when I anneal them first. It is very slight and is stretched out when seating and forming the lead. Bullet comes out nice afterward. Also I do not force the blade down through the case when cutting. It takes an extra second or two per case, But I'm retired, I got time. What a Face

I just figured this out. If I take the 2000 cases I just bought and it takes 6 seconds to cut down a case it will take about 3.5 hours to trim the cases. That does not include annealing. Glad I'm not working. I don't think it would be cost effective. Laughing
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Re: Annealing Brass for Jackets

Post by Daywalker on Wed Mar 14, 2012 6:29 pm

Yep, no one ever said it was a quick job. The rewards afterwards is pretty nice tho. I kinda took them in batches. Trim as many as I could one day, took a break, annealed as many as I could or ran out of propane for the torch, then I placed the cases in a baggy with swage lube and massaged them around till all the cases were lubed, then I bought a rock polisher at a yardsale for 5 bucks, put a smidget of swage lube in it, then filled with cases and rotated till they were lubed and then finished up with final swage. I had to fill my time between range time anyways lol.

Now I don't have time to think about range or even reloading. I am missing it big time...

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Re: Annealing Brass for Jackets

Post by Sasquatch-1 on Thu Mar 15, 2012 8:43 am

The annealing seems to be the longest. I did take a board and put a few framing nails in it. I place the cases on the nails and heat with the torch. This way I can do 4 or 5 and then quench.

I have been realy thinking hard about buying a kiln. I do some stain glass work and my daughter likes pottery and I was thinking I could use it to anneal with also. Any ideas one way or other?
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